Natural emulsifiers are plant-derived ingredients, like the blend of Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol, that safely mix oil and water in skincare products. 

They work by forming a skin-friendly liquid crystal structure which provides long-lasting hydration and allows a tiny amount (as low as 0.5%) to stabilize a high oil content. 

Being non-irritating and biodegradable, they are ideal for sensitive skin and clean beauty formulations, effectively balancing natural efficacy with gentle performance.

Definition

In the world of cosmetics, aqueous and oily ingredients are like oil and water—naturally incompatible. Emulsifiers are the "mediators" that allow them to coexist harmoniously and form stable emulsions (such as facial creams and lotions). Natural emulsifiers are a class of amphiphilic surfactants derived from plants or renewable resources that can safely and efficiently mix oil and water stably.

To truly understand them, we need to delve into the molecular level. The molecular structure of natural emulsifiers is very unique, like a "two-sided coordinator": one end is a hydrophilic group (water-loving), and the other end is a lipophilic group (oil-loving).

Take the typical natural emulsifier AC-M68 SV (INCI Name: Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol) as an example. Its hydrophilic head is a glycoside group derived from natural glucose, while its lipophilic tail is a long-chain alkyl group from plant fatty alcohols.

When this molecule is added to an oil-water mixture, it automatically arranges at the interface between oil and water: the hydrophilic head immerses into the aqueous phase, and the lipophilic tail penetrates into the oil phase. This significantly reduces the interfacial tension between oil and water, allowing the oil to be dispersed into tiny droplets that are uniformly and stably suspended in water, forming the common milky white cream we see.

Many excellent natural emulsifiers, such as alkyl polyglucosides, are characterized by their ability to promote the formation of liquid crystal structures in formulations.

This is a fascinating state between liquid (completely disordered) and solid (highly ordered), which can be understood as an "ordered fluid."

The most common liquid crystal structure is a lamellar structure, where emulsifier molecules are arranged alternately and regularly in layers of hydrophilic and lipophilic layers.

Types

The electrical charge property of emulsifiers in water is the most basic classification standard.

Based on this standard, emulsifiers are mainly divided into four categories: anionic, cationic, non-ionic, and amphoteric.

For example, you certainly wouldn't want the foaming ingredients in shampoo to "conflict" with the conditioning ingredients in hair conditioner and form precipitates on your hair—this is because they belong to different ionic types and have poor compatibility.

Core characteristics of different types:

For daily skin care, non-ionic emulsifiers are undoubtedly important.

The key lies in their "zero-charge" characteristic. Being electrically neutral, they can coexist harmoniously with almost all other ingredients in the formulation, including sensitive active ingredients, electrolytes, sunscreens, and pigments.

Products like AC-M68 SV (Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol) are outstanding representatives of non-ionic emulsifiers and are the main force in constructing the "liquid crystal structure" crucial for the skin.

Its hydrophilic head group is a natural polysaccharide (glucose), rather than the polyoxyethylene (PEG) chain commonly found in traditional non-ionic emulsifiers, which may raise environmental concerns.

This natural glycoside structure brings multiple advantages:

• Green and safe: Has good biodegradability, is environmentally friendly, and has extremely low skin irritation. NOI (Natural Origin Index) = 1, providing reliable safety endorsement for sensitive skin and baby products.

• Excellent performance: Its large glucose head group easily forms a dense lamellar  liquid crystal network through hydrogen bonding, endowing the product with exceptional stability, long-lasting moisturization, and a silky skin feel.

Thanks to their electrically neutral nature, non-ionic emulsifiers can work closely with co-emulsifiers (such as fatty alcohols) to build a highly ordered liquid crystal "armor".

How to Use Them

Dosage Strategy

For natural liquid crystal emulsifiers like AC-M68 SV, their application can be summarized into three levels:

• Used alone as the main emulsifier (Recommended dosage: 3% - 5%):  When your goal is to formulate a basic and mild lotion or cream, using 3%  to 5% AC-M68 SV alone is sufficient to build an extremely stable O/W (oil-in-water) emulsion system. This dosage range has been verified  through extensive testing, capable of effectively emulsifying 10% to 30% of the oil phase, and can handle textures from refreshing to moisturizing.

• Used as a stable base for  compounding and synergistic effects (Recommended dosage: 1% - 3%): When the formulation becomes complex, filled with various high-concentration active ingredients (such as fruit acids, retinol), sunscreens, or inorganic pigments, a single emulsifier may be  "overwhelmed." At this time, adding 1% to 3% AC-M68 SV to an  existing emulsification system can act as a stabilizing base. Its non-ionic properties and strong liquid crystal formation ability can significantly enhance the  tolerance of the entire formulation, resisting instability caused by  temperature changes, electrolytes, and active ingredients. It is an ideal stabilizing partner for complex formulations such as high-efficacy anti-aging products and  high-SPF sunscreens.

• Used as a skin feel enhancer  for finishing touches (Recommended dosage: 0.5% - 1%): Sometimes, a formulation meets all requirements but falls  slightly short in skin feel—maybe it's a bit sticky or not easy to spread. In this case, there's no need for major modifications to the formulation; simply add an additional 0.5% to 1% AC-M68 SV. It can significantly  improve the spreadability and silkiness of the product, endowing the cream with a  rich and moisturizing texture while avoiding the waxy feeling and heaviness that traditional fatty alcohols may bring.

Application Scenarios

High-Moisturizing and Soothing Repair Products

This is the field where liquid crystal emulsifiers like AC-M68 SV shine.

The lamellar liquid crystal structure they form can simulate the lipids in the skin's stratum corneum, thereby forming a breathable, moisture-locking protective film on the skin surface.

This not only achieves long-lasting moisturization but also actively repairs the damaged skin barrier, making it particularly suitable for formulating high-moisturizing creams, soothing lotions, and barrier repair products for dry skin and sensitive skin.

High-Efficacy Active Ingredient Formulations (e.g., Retinol Anti-Aging Night Creams)

For powerful yet highly irritating active ingredients like retinol, the biggest challenge for formulators is to ensure efficacy while reducing irritation.

The liquid crystal structure provided by AC-M68 SV acts like an "intelligent reservoir" that can encapsulate retinol molecules.

When the product is applied to the skin, the active ingredient is slowly and continuously released from the liquid crystal layer, avoiding irritation caused by instant high concentration and achieving coexistence of mildness and high efficiency. It is an ideal carrier for high-end anti-aging products.

Sunscreen Products

The unique chemical structure of AC-M68 SV is very stable, able to withstand various common ingredients in sunscreen products and maintain performance over a wide pH range.

It can help formulate stable sunscreen lotions with SPF30 or higher. The liquid crystal film it forms can also enhance the water resistance of the product, while endowing the sunscreen with a refreshing and non-sticky skin feel, solving the common problem of "heaviness" in sunscreen products.

Mild Products for Mother and Baby, Hair Care, etc.

Due to its natural origin and extremely low irritation, AC-M68 SV is also fully suitable for baby care products, such as baby moisturizing creams.

In the field of hair care, it can be used in hair conditioners and hair masks to help soften hair, improve hair quality, and bring a smooth touch.