AC-VCE (3-o-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is a multifunctional vitamin C derivative experimentally proven to maintain over 98% activity after 10 days at 43°C, far surpassing ordinary vitamin C (only 10% remaining). This demonstrates its exceptional thermal stability. Its amphiphilic nature (both water-soluble and fat-soluble) significantly enhances transdermal absorption, enabling it to act more effectively within deeper skin layers.
AC-VCE exhibits a tyrosinase inhibition rate of 80.8% (close to kojic acid at 95.5%), which indicates significant skin-brightening efficacy. It also promotes collagen synthesis by more than 10-fold, confirming its anti-aging benefits. With a DPPH free radical scavenging rate exceeding 70% and proven non-irritancy on reconstructed human epidermis (cell viability > 50%), it is recommended for use in skin-brightening, anti-aging, and sun care formulations at a concentration of 0.1-3.0%.
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ADVANTAGES
Stability and Compatibility
AC-VCE retains over 98% activity after 10 days at 43°C, whereas ordinary vitamin C retains only 10%. This demonstrates its superior thermal stability compared to traditional vitamin C. A 5% AC-VCE aqueous solution shows no change in appearance after 30 days at 50°C, meaning it maintains color and efficacy stability long-term in formulations, and is suitable for various product types (pH 4.0–6.0).
Efficient Penetration, Reaching the Dermis
AC-VCE has a small molecular, amphiphilic structure. Its added ethyl ether group enhances lipid barrier penetration, allowing it to effectively reach the dermis, it is enzymatically converted into active vitamin C, thereby increasing bioavailability.
Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Properties
AC-VCE is both water-soluble and fat-soluble, dissolving in aqueous or emulsified systems. This represents its adaptability to different formulation environments. It can be added directly to the water phase or incorporated during emulsification below 45°C, offering wide compatibility.
Potent Antioxidant Properties
Experimental data shows that AC-VCE achieves a DPPH free radical scavenging rate exceeding 70% at a concentration of 0.1 g/L. This indicates significant antioxidant efficacy, enabling it to effectively neutralize free radicals induced by environmental factors (such as UV rays and pollution) and mitigate oxidative damage.
EFFICACIES
Skin Brightening Effect, Inhibiting Melanin Formation
AC-VCE achieves a tyrosinase inhibition rate of up to 80.8% (via the L-tyrosine pathway), close to kojic acid (95.5%). This shows it can effectively block a key step in melanin synthesis. Experiments indicate its inhibitory effect is significantly better than ordinary vitamin C (68.5%) and MAP (36.5%). Significant brightening effects can be achieved in formulations at concentrations of 0.1-1.0 mmol/L.
Effective Free Radical Scavenging, Delaying Photoaging
At 0.1 g/L, AC-VCE's DPPH free radical scavenging rate exceeds 70%, representing strong antioxidant capacity. Combined with research indicating vitamin C can mitigate UV-induced oxidative damage, this means it helps defend against photoaging, reducing wrinkles and spots.
Soothing, and Gentle
A formulation containing 30% AC-VCE shows a cell viability rate > 50% on a reconstructed human epidermis model (compared to the strong irritant control, 5% SDS), demonstrating its non-irritating nature. This indicates it is suitable for sensitive skin.
Repairing Skin Cells, Accelerating Collagen Synthesis
Experiments show that treating human fibroblasts with an AC-VCE-containing formulation increases collagen synthesis by more than 10-fold (at 1.25–2.5 mg/mL concentration). This signifies a marked promotion of skin repair. Long-term use can improve skin elasticity and deliver anti-aging results.
FAQ
Q1: How to achieve whitening and lightening?
A1:Triple pathway:
1 Inhibits tyrosinase and reduces melanin synthesis
2 Reduces dopaquinone and blocks oxidative polymerisation
3 Accelerates keratin metabolism and lightens existing pigments
Q2: What is the optimal concentration of AC-VCE?
A2: The usage concentration of AC-VCE in skincare products typically ranges from 0.1% to 3%. A concentration of 2% AC-VCE has been shown to improve dark spots on sun-damaged and dull skin by inhibiting melanin formation. Concentrations exceeding 5% may be utilized depending on the desired efficacy, with studies confirming that concentrations up to 30% demonstrate no irritation on human skin samples.