AC-GLA

AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) is a small-molecule organic acid first discovered and reported by Dr. Van Scott and Dr. Ruey Yu in 1974, with nearly 50 years of research history in dermatology. Naturally found in fruits, yogurt, and sugarcane, AHAs are non-toxic carboxylic acids containing hydroxyl groups at the α-position, characterized by small molecular size and strong permeability.

The global glycolic acid market reached USD 489 million in 2024, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.1% projected from 2025 to 2030, reflecting growing demand for natural and safe ingredients. Due to its ability to effectively penetrate the stratum corneum without disrupting the skin barrier, it is widely used in cosmetics and dermatology for exfoliation, acne treatment, and improvement of photoaging. 

AC-GLA 99% is a highly purified crystalline form of glycolic acid for applications where avoidance of water is necessary.

AC-GLA 99% is a highly purified crystalline form of glycolic acid designed for applications requiring avoidance of water. It has a total acid content ≥99.0%, chloride ≤10 mg/kg, and ash ≤0.1%, meeting high purity standards. With the growing trend toward anhydrous formulations, this form ensures active ingredient stability and prevents hydrolysis. Glycolic acid increases type I collagen mRNA expression by 2.8 times, and the high-purity form helps better preserve its bioactivity, providing reliable raw material support for anti-aging products.

Smallest Molecular Weight & Strongest Permeability
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size among AHAs, giving it a simple structure that enables effective penetration into skin pores. Its small molecular nature allows it to reach deeper skin layers quickly, addressing aging and acne concerns in a short time.

Excellent Exfoliation & Skin Renewal Capability
In a study of 80 patients, 95% of users reported significant acne improvement after using 70% glycolic acid, indicating high exfoliation efficiency. It promotes keratinocyte shedding, shortens the skin renewal cycle, and helps reveal healthier-looking skin.

Enhances Active Ingredient Absorption
Glycolic acid improves the absorption of subsequent products, functioning as a penetration enhancer. When combined with other actives (e.g., brightening agents) in formulations, it can amplify overall efficacy and increase product efficiency.

Dual Action in Anti-Aging & Skin Revitalization
Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA expression by 2.8 times and enhances epidermal hyaluronic acid staining by 54.7%, indicating collagen stimulation at the genetic level. It not only helps reduce wrinkles but also boosts skin hydration, achieving both anti-aging and revitalizing effects.

 • Promotes Collagen Synthesis: Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA expression by 2.8 times (as verified by Northern blot analysis) and raises dermal hyaluronic acid content by 9.4%. Its small molecular structure allows deep penetration into the dermis, directly activating fibroblast activity and promoting collagen and elastic fiber production.

• Moisturizes & Locks in Hydration: After using 20% glycolic acid, epidermal hyaluronic acid staining intensity increases by 54.7%. By enhancing the skin’s natural moisturizing factor network, it forms a protective hydrating film on the epidermal surface, effectively preventing water evaporation.

• Brightens Skin Tone: Based on an 80-subject clinical study, 95% of users reported significant improvement in acne and hyperpigmentation. By accelerating keratinocyte turnover, it reduces melanin transfer to the epidermis, resulting in a more even and radiant complexion.

• Exfoliates & Renews the Epidermis: Glycolic acid activates serine protease and steroid sulfatase, weakening desmosomal connections between keratinocytes. Clinical data show a significant reduction in total wrinkle length (P<0.05), enabling gentle exfoliation of dead skin cells without damaging the skin barrier.

Q1:What are the applications of glycolic acid in dermatology?

A1:

①Acne.

②Pigmentary disorders such as chloasma and post-inflammatory pigmentation.

③Skin aging.

④Others: For instance, it has excellent therapeutic effects on various types of ichthyosis and lichen hair, restoring the skin to normal.

Q2:What advantages does glycolic acid have over salicylic acid?

A2:

① The smallest molecular weight and strong penetration:

Glycolic acid is the &alpha; -hydroxy acid with the smallest molecular weight, only 76 Da. It has excellent water solubility and can quickly penetrate the stratum corneum of the epidermis and reach the superficial dermis of the skin, directly stimulating the synthesis of collagen.

Salicylic acid has a molecular weight of 138 Da and is lipid-soluble. It mainly acts on the oil in the pores, but has a relatively weak stimulating effect on the dermis.

② Efficiently remove old and dead keratin:

Glycolic acid strongly promotes epidermal renewal by breaking the intercellular connection bonds (ionic bonds, desmosomes) of keratinocytes. Continuous use can shorten the keratin metabolism cycle (from 28 days to 14 days), significantly improving rough skin and fine lines.

Although salicylic acid can unclog pores, it has a relatively weak effect on the overall renewal of the epidermis and is more suitable for local anti-acne treatment.

③ Thicken the epidermis and strengthen the barrier：

Long-term use of low-concentration glycolic acid (such as 5% to 10%) can thicken the epidermis by up to 27%, promote the synthesis of ceramides, and enhance the skin's water retention capacity and barrier toughness.

Salicylic acid has no such effect. Excessive use may instead weaken the barrier.

④ Stimulating collagen makes anti-aging more direct:

Glycolic acid can penetrate into the dermis, activate fibroblasts, enhance the synthesis of type I and type III collagen, and improve skin elasticity and firmness.

The effect of salicylic acid is limited to pores and the epidermis, and there is no anti-aging data to support it.